Experiences from Croatia
28.12.2022.
When people talk about most beautiful Croatian islands, Vis is always among them and you have to have in mind that Croatia has more than 1100 of them, around 60 populated. Vis is especially mentioned by those who were there. My experience is the same as the experience from all the ones who were there before me. I even dare to say it's the most beautiful place Adriatic Sea. However I won't brag I saw it all, but I have seen enough and I can say this was one of most interesting vacations, full of beautiful and unspoiled nature, nice beaches and great food and vine.
To enjoy all that Vis offers, first you need to get there and that's the only part that is not so nice. Ferry goes from Split twice on a daily basis so if you miss the first one, you'll wait quite some time for the second one. Ticket for two people and a car (what I would recommended concerning the size of the island) causes instant headache, one way ticket is 480 kuna or around 65 Euro. Ferry ride lasts almost two and a half hours and that's how long you'll have headache because it will go away the moment you see Vis for the first time.
Town Vis is one of two bigger places on the island, Komiza is slightly smaller. So let's start with the most important during summer - the beaches. Kamenice is a gravel beach in Komiza, popular at younger generations since lounge bar turns into a club during the night. Next to the lounge bar there is a restaurant which offers good food at affordable prices.
Stiniva is on the south of the island and often titled as the most beautiful Croatian beach and one of the most beautiful in Europe. There is a cliff from both sides so passage is only 15 meters wide. It's extremely unusual and unique. Beacuse of it's position, there is no sun after 5pm. To get there you'll need to do some climbing and hiking, hopefully you are in a good shape since difficult and steep path lasts about 15 minutes. You'll maybe have several scratches when you arrive and will be completely covered in sweat but it pays off since this kind of God's play with nature you didn't see. Zaglav is on the east side of the island and to get there you need to enter place Milna. Once you enter it, you'll need to walk 15 minutes from the main beach, unlike Stiniva path is here visible and there is no climbing. It's a sandy beach, ideal if you want to have some peace. Srebrna is a beach near Zaglav and got it's name beacuse of reflection of boulders during the moonlight. It's perfect for families as it has a lot of pine forest, therefore shade. There is also restaurant and parking.
Vis and that part of Adriatic Sea is most popular for it's Blue Cave and you must not miss it by any chance! It is on the nearby island Bisevo. Ticket costs 70 kuna (little less than 10 Euro) but in order to get there you need to pay some of the local sea transport companies. They will make a trip of it so for additional 130 kuna (18 Euro) you will also see cave Medvidina and beach Porat. Blue Cave is a unique place, unfortunately commercialized, but even five minutes inside will completely fascinate you. Entrance itself is interesting since port is small so only small boats can get in. Captain of the boat will tell you to lay down when entering otherwise you'll hit your head. Inside the cave silence is the first thing you notice, opposite to everything that is going on outside. In a combination with beautiful blue reflection and cristal clear bottom (even though depth is 20 meters) you'll experience absolute serenity. You can take photos but swimming is forbidden. To sum it all up in one word - stunning.
After vising Blue Cave you'll take a short ride to Porat beach at island Bisevo. Beach is sheltered from the winds, there is pine forest and you can choose where you'll put your towel, meaning it's not crowded. I am maybe subjective but Porat is the most beautiful beach at Biševo and Vis, so no wonder I went all the way there twice.
If you fear you won't have anything to do except swimming and sunbathing, you are mistaken. You can go to any of two summer cinema's which are outdoors. One is located in Vis, other in Komiza. For only 25 kuna (3.5 Euro) you can basically see all the blockbusters. Gostionica Aerodrom is in fact winery/tavern where I ate famous cake called "viška pogača". To be more precise, "komiška pogača". Dough is the same, sardines go in both but the one from Komiza has extra tomato filling. In the same place I drank the best white vine in my life - Vugava, sweet sort that grows only on this island. To highlight, Aerodrom is at Plisko Polje and to get there you need to use one of two main roads. One is 10 km long and the other 18, slower but with a much better view. Place you also must visit is pastry shop Cukar. Extremely tasty cakes in a range from 12 to 19 kuna (1.5 to 2.5 euro) will make you come there every day. They are also different in a positive way because of unusual ingredients such as lavender, fig, rosemary, sage. The competition is happy Cukar is not thinking about opening more shops like this one. I have to mention several more must see places. Visit Fortress King George III, go there at least for a drink. Fortress was built by British Royal Navy more than two centuries ago and today is a place where often weddings are held over the weekends. Don't miss Tito cave which was residence of Josip Broz Tito during World War II. It's under Hum, highest point at Vis. View from there is breathtaking. For breakfast go to restaurant Fabrika in Komiza. You'll be well fed, atmosphere is really nice and with cofee included all of this will cost you barely 100 kuna (13 Euro). For dinner I am sure at least once you'll have the opportunity to experience "fishing nights", unlike the ones in other islands, this one is free for all people there.
Words can't describe how beautiful Vis is and all that it offers, so the best thing to do is to go there and see it yourself. I can guarantee you won't be sorry! Best way to spend holidays on island Vis is to rent apartment directly with owners of accommodation, because it will be much cheaper, and owners will tell you many useful informations about island. You can choose between apartments in town of Vis and apartments in Komiža, but surely you will enjoy and have great time and holidays on this magic island.
island Vis Komiža Biševo Blue cave
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